Colour in Pre-Columbian Textiles – Research Project
The colour issue: How do we translate the chromatic heritage of pre-Columbian textiles into modern design systems?
Textile Colour | Colour Heritage | Colour Measurement | Colour Design
This research project focused on developing a methodology for identifying, classifying, and communicating the colours present in pre-Columbian Andean textiles from northern Chile, treating colour as a carrier of visual, symbolic, and cultural identity. Textiles in these cultures are more than fabric—they are textured colour, woven with purpose and layered with meaning. The project sought to rescue and reframe the chromatic memory embedded in ceremonial textiles known as inkuñas, which were used for wrapping sacred objects, performing rituals, and expressing spiritual and cosmological beliefs still present in Andean communities today.
A total of 190 archaeological textiles from the Chilean Museum of Pre-Columbian Art were reviewed, and a representative sample of 40 pieces was selected to capture the diversity of colour use across cultures and historical periods. Using colourimetry and spectrophotometry, the colours were scientifically measured, and reflectance curves were recorded for each tone. These were then translated into various contemporary colour systems—including CIE Lab, Munsell, CMYK, RGB, and both natural and synthetic dyeing recipes—to ensure their accessibility and usability across modern platforms and disciplines.
As Colour Consultant, my role included guiding the measurement processes, translating the spectral data into functional colour systems, and refining the final chromatic chart. I was also responsible for reducing the broad range of detected hues into a curated, communicable palette that could be applied in contemporary design, craft, education, and cultural preservation.
The goal was not only academic, but practical: to make these ancestral colours available and usable today, while respecting their origins and cultural context. This work allows designers, artists, educators, and communities to reintegrate historical chromatic heritage into current creative practices, supporting cultural continuity through design.
This research was part of the FONDECYT Regular N°1100914 project, funded by Chile’s National Agency for Research and Development (ANID), and carried out in collaboration with the Chilean Museum of Pre-Columbian Art.
Project team: Soledad Hoces de la Guardia, Paulina Brugnoli, Paulina Jélvez, María de la Paz Cox, María Rosa Domper, Lina Cárdenas & Ingrid Calvo Ivanovic
Years: 2011 – 2012.
